Thursday, November 22, 2007

Shirley Island trip #2

Howdy folk, firstly I must apologise for neglecting things over the past two weeks or so, I would say there is a legitimate reason for it, but id be lying. I will say this though, one day last week I was determined to post another piece, however being a perfect day (we’ve now had 9 windless and sunny days straight!… unheard of here, so im told) some people had decided they would take a trip to Shirley Island to see the Adelie colony again. Having only been there once before, and being such perfect weather, I decided the blog could wait… seeing things like penguin colonies is what im here for after all… it was a good decision, the pictures can never really tell the story, but it was amazing!
Shirley Island, being an island, requires a little bit of walking over sea-ice. The ‘bridge’ between the island and the main land is only about 100 metres long (but probably 1km wide), and the first time I crossed it I couldn’t even really tell where the ice was meant to start. This time I could though, it wasn’t like looking down into the water through the ice or anything (the ground just looked like you were walking on solid rock covered by snow) but you knew that there was water about 1.5m below the surface. Since things have been warming up a little lately there has been a bit of melting, and as it melts, the snow on the surrounding hills (which has compacted into a mini glacier over winter) slides down towards the water like a slow avalanche, causing the sea-ice to warp and stress a little. This is actually visible in places where ridges in the ice are starting to form, and if youre quiet you can hear it moving and cracking in places.

It was on the thin ‘bridge’ of ice that we started seeing little groups of penguins, and this super fat/super lazy Weddell seal, or was it a leech on Steggles growth hormone…?

This photo was taken from the island, looking back across edge of the sea-ice to the shore of the mainland (background). Aside from being extremely fast swimmers, penguins are also not to bad at jumping. They propel themselves out of the water fast enough to jump up onto the shelf, just prior to a spectacular belly-flop on the ice. The penguins seem to like hanging around in little groups of somewhere between 3 and 15 when they aren’t with the rest of the colony. Watch them for long enough and you also soon realise that there are definite personality differences between individuals. Some are very inquisitive, while some are extremely shy; some are leaders, and some are followers. But there is one thing they all have in common, they are all hilarious! While watching the penguins I had an idea for solving the world’s problems, heres my idea: I think if we just abolished knees from the human race, people would be too busy laughing at other people trying to perform every day tasks (such as climbing a staircase) that nobody would be thinking of war or dropping bombs on people. Actually, I might start a political party and push for the abolition of knees… im told all I need to do is spend $30 million of tax-payer’s money on advertising and I might have a chance of winning an election.
Anyway, sinicism aside, after watching a few small parties for some time, and getting some close-ups of the more inquisitive ones, we marched on to the colony. The numbers have grown significantly since my first visit and there are now several thousand penguins in the colony, I estimate. One thing they don’t tell you in training is that you must always try to approach a colony from an upwind direction… there isn’t really any top-soil in Antarctica to speak of… but the penguins do a pretty job of making their own, and once you get a good whiff of it… lets just say its not exactly the pristine Antarctic air that you might expect to be breathing in here.The photo below shows a skewer trying to steal some eggs. They circle about 10 metres above the colony... definitely no ambiguity to their intentions.
Well, another trip to Shirley Island, and a good time was had by all.

Friday, November 9, 2007

A Day in the Life

Having only just finished our first week here, there has still been a lot of ‘catching up’ to do. Co-ordinating rosters for Bureau work and getting some continuity in our work has been one issue, but taking care of hydroponics (we have two small portable rooms in which those who are interested are helping to keep a little bit of greenery in the diet), making up some fire drills and co-ordinating those guys, and trying to fit free time and sleep in somewhere have also proved difficult.
As part of our Bureau change-over we got given the keys to what I like to think of as the diabeties draw...

One interesting aspect of life here at the present is the amount of daylight hours we get. Its only spring but already we’re getting almost 14 hours of sunlight a day, and that’s not including the amount of twilight hours… for example walking home from work today the horizon was still blood orange at a little after 11pm! For those of you who don’t see too many sunrises, we have between 7 and 8 hours of sunlight in Newcastle (35 degrees south) during spring.

This (above) was the sunshine reader for today. Add up the hours

On my days of work, I work… it’s a pretty full day, but there are gaps in it where I can take a few photos, go for a bit of a walk, read, run fire drills... you know, relax. Yesterday it was my turn for “slushy” duty, which is a system where everyone on station is rostered for a certain day to help our two chefs in the kitchen. It’s good actually, good to work in a kitchen where the chefs vocabulary consists of more than the one ‘fancy’ adjective.

Throughout our week we have a few certain events by which to punctuate things. On Saturdays, for example, we have a ‘formal’ dinner, where the chefs go that little bit further with the meal, putting out tablecloths and candles etc, and even the tradies are encouraged to iron their flannelettes.

For Sundays we have started a 16mm film night. At the back of the small theatre we have is a film projector and a fantastic selection of films! It’s a little like stepping into a museum. Last Sunday we kicked off by watching a 1940s version of Pride and Prejudice, screen-written by Aldous Huxley. On Saturdays we have a Station Duties afternoon, where everyone is allocated a job such as taking rubbish to the burners, cleaning certain communal living areas, tending to the hydroponics, or… if you didn’t guess… fire training (it’s an important side of Antarctic life as you may have gathered). This and being slushy is a good way to have everyone contribute, and also keeps people domestic in a way. The thing is that down here you don’t have to call a plumber and get them to fix your toilet, chances are they’ll already know because you’re evidently using theirs. Or if you need an electrician to change a recently blown capacitor for a power supply, or light bulb, they’re here (I haven’t gone through the specifics, but im pretty sure standing on a chair to change a bulb would require a ‘working-at-heights’ certificate, and im not qualified for that…) We’ve also got mechanics, chefs, communications operators (a polite way of saying nerds), and chippies here, so there isn’t a lot we CAN do!

One thing I can and have done is go cross-country skiing (within station limits of course). Ive been twice already and its great fun, despite the restrictions (no helicopters or double backflips im told). The but the snow is melting fast at the moment, and after another perfect clear day today and lots of sun the terrain is starting to emerge from under the white.

This is just our Meteorology (met) area, but you can see the exposed rock that Is starting to appear.


Looking in certain directions you can almost see rolling hills of rocky outcrop after rocky outcrop along the coastline, which is something I never imagine seeing here. Infact the station becomes almost completely rocky during the height of summer judging by some of the photos ive seen. Right now seems to be the perfect time to visit actually; not too cold but still lots of snow around, nesting penguins and snow petrels, and a fair amount of sun.


I would point out though that the photos I post give a somewhat biased idea of Antarctic weather, the photos here are generally taken on days where, come sunset, you’re convinced that this one is even more amazing than last time, only to find you’ve now got 10 identical photos. But while there have been some really beautiful days, we’ve also had a few blizzards already, and only Wednesday we had a maximum wind gust of 88knots! (163km/hr). Im told the rule of thumb is that you generally try not to go out in a wind that is greater than your body weight… being a little less than 70 I had to trial this theory. I’ll just say that I wouldn’t want to have been out for too long.
This was only a 45knot wind or so, but still a blizzard, and still quite strong.


However tomorrow is meant to be another nice day, and being my day off im going to make the most of the snow cover and utilize the cross country skis again.

Till next time.
PS I managed to snap off this shot of Tod's first balloon lanch where the electroliser (makes hydrogen for the balloons) disagreed with the way he was doing things...

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

1st Week at Casey Station


Well, its Wednesday evening and we’ve been here for more or less a week. Its been pretty eventful!




After waving the A.A. behind from the seat of a helicopter, we had a 45minute and roughly 80 mile flight over dense pack-ice and some VERY large bergs. It was a perfect day and we got a fairly good view of Casey station from the air on our way in.

Due to the possibility of a very short ‘change-over’, where we fly in and the old crew fly out within a few hours, there was a priority list made of exactly who needed to fly in first for what reason. As the in-coming Fire Chief to Casey I was a high on the list, and one of the first to fly in. There is a LOT to get your head around being Fire Chief for a station, but luckily we have a few people who have been to Casey before and are able to help with things I couldn’t take in. As it turned out though the change over took a few days, and the old crew didn’t leave until 3 days later.
Just a warning, this blog may cause death by sunset over-exposure. Sorry, but its coming into summer and im roughly 66 degrees south... its practically sunset 6 hours a day... The thing about snow is that it lends itself to being photographed at sunset. Apart from reflecting the colours well, the surface is always well lit, which eliminates the common problem of a well lit sky, but an underexposed landscape. But hey... like i know what im talking about...
On my second day here I managed to talk some of the old crew into taking me to the nearby Adelie penguin rookery for a few hours at sunset. The way things work here is that you’re not allowed past “station limits” on your own without being “field trained”, or without carrying a survival pack with you (15kg of bivvy bag, sleeping bag, ice axe, radio and all sorts of other things). Since station limits consist of an area maybe 200m by 500m it is kind of restrictive, but I guess there’s good cause for it, the weather can change quite fast here.




The rookery, which is growing larger and larger every day, is about 1km away and on an island called Shirley Island. As it is only late spring we can walk across to the island over ice quite easily, but as summer progresses the water between the mainland and the island will thaw and zodiacs will be the only way to get across. It’s a perfect time to check them out really.

Last week when we visited them there were only around 1500 birds there altogether, sitting in groups of around 30 to 100 on top of any small outcrop they could find. Now I suspect there a lot more because on a day of light winds they can be heard from the station.
As far as work goes I don’t have much to say except that its good to finally do something, as opposed to training and being inducted constantly for the past 3 months! We have worked out a roster which means long days on days of work, but more days off for field trips and excursions into the big white. While I basically knew how to do my job before arriving, there were also a lot of things specific to Antarctica which has been hard to take in. time zones for example: for different reasons I am working on Casey time (meals, sleep, aviation reports etc), Mawson time (aka Casey Bastard time, for 3 hourly synoptic reports), GMT/UTC (for balloon launches), and ACT/NSW/TAS time (for Eb and family and Hobart head office). I’ll get there I guess.

If weather reporting wasn’t keeping me busy enough, my secondary job has been keeping me on my cold little toes. Just hours after the previous Fire Chief handed me over the “master key” and jumped on a helicopter to freedom, we had a small fire where a small portable fuel stove caught on fire during routine maintenance and checks. Not a big deal by any stretch, the fire alarms didn’t go off because it was in a specifically ventilated area, and I only found out several hours later. But it did mean a little paper work for me, and if nothing else it gives me something to put in my monthly report. If you had’ve asked me I would’ve told you that was probably enough action under the Fire Chief’s big red hat until things got settled… but no… ‘course not… last night after dinner I was alerted to a report of smoke in our Operations building. After a brief “sus-out” of the area, and being unable to find the source, we sounded the alarm and the station went into fire mode. A muster took place in the Red Shed of everyone not involved in the fire team, and the fire team reported to me.

We checked in the roof, the floor and each room, but found it to be a burnt out capacitor in the power supply for the old phone system. It didn’t amount to any flame, and nothing except the capacitor was damaged, but I think everyone was certainly a little nervous for a while. The good news however is that the fire team all responded very quickly and efficiently to the alarm, and im sure that if there had been any flame we would have gotten to it before it caused any serious damage. I should point out that two incident in a week is more than the total number of incident that occurred last year ALTOGETHER! Hooray, more reports…

Monday, November 5, 2007

Ice- bound

Id like to start this post off by once again apologising for my atrocious spelling, I did warn you though. If its any consolation ive been very busy since arriving here, and its been a lot to take in, so by the time I get to my computer at night to write this its usually been a pretty long day, at the end of which my brain has a tendency to switch off on simple tasks such as spelling 'proof'... at that time of night 'pruff' looks good enough to me... But lets face it, spelling never was my forte.

Anyway, Once we put the high seas behind us it was smooth sailing for another 2 or 3 days before we got into the ice. Im not sure what I was expecting in terms of the first ice sightings, maybe a titanic sized berg floating by, accompanied by seals, penguins, albatross' and a killer whale or two...? Or a sheer wall of sea-ice confronting us like the front line of an army, which we had to ram, then ram again and again...? In any case, it started much less dramatically... a patch of pancake ice (pieces around 1-2m in diameter) floating past my bedroom window as I woke up, then practically nothing till lunch time. By mid-afternoon though we were steaming through thick pancake ice, which was increasing hourly into small floes.

The next morning it was basically 0.5 to a metre thick (or even more... its hard to tell sometimes), which is thick enough to drive a truck over. On the third day of our 'ice-land-ik' traverse we were starting to have trouble. The ship sometimes had to have 2 or 3 goes at ramming a particularly stubborn section of ice and we had to really start picking our path to Casey. In the end we stopped a little less than 80 nautical miles from Casey, and commenced "flyoff" operations on the 30th of October.
Before this though, as we started entering the sea-ice, we were put through a certain "ceremony" of induction... Our 'crossing-the-line' (60 degrees south) ceremony was far from Golding-esk, but fairly stupid never-the-less. The worst thing is that I was later told that the certificate they gave me (picture on the right) is useless if I want to cross the equator by sea. In that case I would be put through a similar ritual. Oh well, at least some people liked it.

Apart from birds, there really wasnt that much wildlife to see as we travelled through the ice. On two occasions I saw a few penguins, but only from a distance, and if I was to post the photos here you wouldnt have a clue what they were of. On another occasion some people spotted some orcas in the distance, but I didnt get to see them. The only thing I really got a good look at, and a half decent photo of, was a crab eater seal and her pup (at least thats what I think it was).