Saturday, April 5, 2008

Autumn Chill

The days are getting much shorter now at Casey. After losing something close to one hour each week around the Autumnal Equinox (March 22nd), the rate of change is now slowing down so that 7 days from now we will have just 40 minutes less daylight than we do today. Come June 22 (the Winter Solstice) we will have just two and a half hours of light each day (presuming it isn’t cloudy). But for the most part we have been very lucky with the weather so far. For a few weeks after the ship left we had lots of low cloud, and not much sunshine, but generally light winds. A little way into March though, the cloud disappeared (probably went to somewhere like Mawson or Davis), and we were treated to two or three weeks of fine and sunny weather. The clear night skies here are great, and even better when you get to see something like this…
As much as I like these photos however, I will admit that they give a somewhat warped idea of reality. While nothing can really compare to watching this light show in person, the necessarily long exposure of the camera, 40 seconds or more, definitely enhances the colour. To give you an idea, the snowy foreground was almost pitch black to the naked eye, but the camera picks up the colour very well. I must have stood outside (in –15C or so, which isn’t really that cold unless you’re standing still taking photos) for over an hour that night (I was excited), but the aurora itself actually lasted for 3 nights (albeit faintly). The third night of which Craig and I had decided to ski to Wilkes again.
Although due to the shorter days we no longer have the luxury of choosing to travel at any hour of the day, we set off this evening after work and were aided by the recently full moon. By the by, you will have to wait another 10 years for a full moon on the Autumnal Equinox… for those who are interested. This was to be my second visit to the Hilton in a week – a place that for me is becoming a home away from home away from home… Whats more, it was to be my third jolly in as many weeks, after a trip to Jack’s Donga the previous weekend. Its hard to resist the only wood fire in all of the Australian Antarctic Territory. What I particularly like about visiting these huts is that it gives you an idea of what it was like for the real explorers… even if its just an idea. We live in such comfort and luxury that I can sit at my window in the evening, reading a book with a cup of tea, and 2 feet away, on the other side of the window, the temperature can easily be 30C or 40C lower and blowing 30 knots. If you forget how things freeze here, and how quickly you can get cold outside, visiting these huts if a nice reminder. We turn the bar-heaters in the huts off at night for safety reasons, and at Wilkes the fire will go out. Ventilation means that by the time you wake up in the morning the hut has more or less dropped to ambient outside temperatures (-10C or so), and it will be a while before it heats up again. But for us this is just one night in many, for Scott it was every night, and he didn’t have bar-heaters… But the wood fire isn’t all I like about Wilkes. It is, as I have mentioned before, a historical site, quite literally frozen in time.
In summer, this (above) was a shallow melt pond at Wilkes. A few inches bellow the surface are planks of wood, tin cans, metal pipes, and other bits and pieces.It’s a black and white photographer’s dream… and a nice place for a novice like myself to try shooting off a few too. My take on Wilkes is this: it was positioned terribly by the Americans, who seemed to have landed in Newcomb Bay and thought “right, where is the most snow accumulating, the most wind blowing, and generally the worst looking area?” and started building at Wilkes. They then got sick of digging the station out of the snow every time there was a puff of wind, and gave over power to the Australians. After about a decade (50s or 60s I think) they too got sick of it and decided to pack up and leave. No… wait a minute… they didn’t pack up anything, they just left! As I am going to do now. Arrivederci!

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

V4 departure, and the arrival of Winter.

Although the season feels distinctively like Autumn (in the Natural sense), for those of us left here on the ice, in a hominal sense, Winter has well and truly set in. Voyage 4, the Aurora Australis, our summer colleagues, and any contact with the outside world (at least physical contact) departed Casey on February 14th. Forgive the dramaturgy, I know it sounds extreme, but the day V4 left us was without a doubt one of the strangest days of my life! It’s a difficult thing to describe: that day, quite literally, 19 of us were deserted in a more or less lifeless place with the prospect of bitterly cold winds, blizzards lasting days at a time, at times constant total darkness, and were told, “stay here, we’ll be back in November”.As the last barge ferrying people from Casey to the ship slowly pulled away from the wharf, the reality of this finally began to sink in. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so literally deserted.
Having said this, it wasn’t necessarily a sad or scary thing for me… more exciting than anything, which was a little surprising considering there were quite a few people visibly upset that afternoon. Many a tear was shed on the afternoon of the departure, but not before we on station gave the AA its customary send off: apparently flares make a regular appearance as the ship departs at the end of summer.
One of our diesos, Brad, seeing off the AA on departure day.

Me... doing the same.

Perhaps it was the strangely calm and eerie weather, or maybe the flares, or watching the AA set off into a silver berg-littered ocean knowing our last chance to change our minds and get onboard was past, and that for the next 9 months or so we would have to learn to like each other if we didn’t already, but I remember the general demeanour of everyone on station that afternoon was strangely very light and friendly. Not an odd thing in itself, but in the context of the day… it all felt very surreal in a way.Once again the moon seemed to be in tune with the station mood just a few days later, rising auspiciously between partial cloud, marking the recent return of night-time to Casey. Now, almost a month later, we are experiencing around 12 hours without sun each day, and losing an hour or light each week. Things seem to be hastening to the darkness of the true Winter.The day after the ship left we had a Casey-wide day of rest, to mark the end of the busy resupply. It was a well-earned day off for many, who decided to kick their feet up for the first time in a while. But for some, a day of rest meant we could do what we came for… jolly. The indefatigable Todor, Curly, Doc and I decided a day ski trip to Wilkes was in order, so we donned the survival packs and went.

Looking across Newcomb Bay towards Casey station on the far peninsula.


Todor, Doc (Heleen) and Curly (Craig).

The 15km round trip took us some 3 hours or so, by memory, but was a great way to see more of the terrain around station. Instead of blasting past all the interesting nooks and crannies on a noisy quad, I really enjoyed the slower pace of skiing. Besides, you actually feel like you’ve deserved a bit of a rest at the Hilton if you’ve used some energy getting there.Anyway, that’s probably enough of the old-fashioned grandpa in me… take a look at this photo of me and a penguin :)Now, mid-March, most of the wildlife is starting to desert us. Pretty soon we’ll be the only life-forms silly enough to want to stay here, but for now there are still a few straggling penguins, moulting in preparation for their trip north, the odd weddell seal, and a few elephant seals south of Casey, who are all expected to head off within the next few weeks.

Its becoming a cold and dark place, but I must say im looking forward to some wild weather. That is after all a big part of why I came here.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Resupply

During the days leading up to Resupply, as if conscious of the generally excited mood on station, even the Sun and moon could not help being drawn into the festivities, putting on a rare show for the expectant crowd at Casey. On the 7th of February we were treated to a partial solar eclipse, which the ever-vigilant camera of Todor managed to capture through a dark plastic bag and a thin layer of cloud. The eclipse lasted for just a few hours in the morning, but was an expedient event to mark, for some, the end of a rather surreal Summer holiday, and the beginning of their journey back home to loved ones. [Aurora Australis at night from Casey]
Being a ‘winterer’ however I must say I felt like something of a bystander to much of the excitement. Watching and hearing the ‘summerers’ talk in sanguine tones about what delights they were going to indulge in once they got home didn’t make the prospect of staying for another 9 or 10 months sound terribly enticing. Nevertheless there was a notably jocular feeling running through the station prior to Resupply, which was at times hard to avoid.
[Tom and Jenn in the Wallow]
Resupply itself however was one of the more chaotic periods we have experienced here to date, and I must say was not something I was looking forward to with great enthusiasm. The more seasoned expeditioners had warned us of this, and that the entire process was estimated to last around a week (dependant, as everything, on weather) by the end of which we would be well and truly ready to welcome the supposedly relaxed Winter with open arms.
[Ice cliffs of Newcomb Bay]
For me, the most concerning aspect of Resupply was the fire board. Im not sure exactly what would have happened in terms of a muster and the fire response team, but I have included here during and after resupply shots of the board to illustrate the relative simplicity we are now dealing with, post Resupply. In short, we had lots of new people on station who may or may not have known where to go and what to do in case of a fire, and others who may or may not have heard the alarm at all. Thankfully though, we had no troubles with fire alarms during this time, and Resupply went off more or less without any problems. Essentially, resupply is about providing the station with enough food, fuel, material (plumbing, building, electrical supplies etc), and winterers’ cargo (the rest of mine and others’ personal luggage) to last until next summer. Bellow is the contents of one-of-five food containers on the floor of our Green Store, which I helped unload with the vested interest that it is to last us/Casey for another 12 months. As an extra however, there are often many A.A.D. (Australian Antarctic Division) head office employees, science related ‘round-trippers’, and others, who visit the stations on these voyages for various reason, and who have certain projects to complete during the Resupply week. I was assigned to accompany one such BoM employee on a trip to the Wilkins A.W.S. (automatic weather station) during this week, giving me a pleasant day away from the station. The only free vehicle at our disposal on station being the Noddy, (Latin name: Warpus speedus), at least 6 hours of our time was spent bouncing up and down therein. It was however one of the clearest, calmest, and most pleasant days of all time at Wilkins – and, being so, we enjoyed a very civilised alfresco luncheon of antipasto ingredients at the Antarctic Circle.
To top off a rather enjoyable break from station life, on our return to Casey, coming back “down the hill” at around sunset, we witnessed one of those phenomena usually reserved for the desert regions of the warmer latitudes. Not knowing exactly what causes such a phenomena in the coldest place on earth I can only assume that the mirages we saw were due to light radiating off the snow and ice, which in turn refracted our view, showing us bergs that were bellow the horizon. Please correct me if I am wrong as this is only conjecture, but bellow is my attempt to capture the event.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Icebergs and cruises

For the most part, although it may seem a little counterintuitive, I think that what has impressed me most about being here so far has been what isn’t here, rather than what is here. Flying in on my birthday; the aurora we saw from the ship’s deck; strolling around amongst the penguins; experiencing a true blizzard, I must admit these were all quite amazing to me, even at the time. But it is the lack of trees, grass, ‘regular’ animals, ‘normal’ weather (rain), insects, certain smells, children, friends & family and other similar things that I find quite strange about being here. I wouldn’t say the lack of these things makes me homesick – although I do sometimes wish I could just go hiking at Barrington tops, or go to a cafĂ© with friends – but it does give me a new appreciation for these things, and shows me just how much I generally take for granted. Hence, I think my being here will mean much more to me once I’m home again.
However one thing that did really impress me immediately – and yes, I might even go so far as to say something theatrical like, “it took my breath away” – was the recent iceberg cruise I was lucky enough to get in on. We have 3 IRBs (Inflatable Rubber Boat) on station, and for most of the summer only two with a coxswains licence. For some over-precautious reason there is a law that states only coxswains may drive an IRB in Antarctica, and that there must never be only one boat in the water at a time. Since summer was quite a busy period, it was hard work finding an evening after work where both coxswains were free and nothing else was planned.
Here are Tod and "Curly", all smiles heading towards the bergs around sunset.Late in the season however, a 3rd coxswain arrived via the A319 Airbus, and on a very calm and clear evening late in January, we pushed some small bergy bits aside at the wharf, and put the boats in the water for the one solitary boat cruise of the season. One is better than none though, and I must say it was the most amazing 2 hours I’ve ever spent in a boat.
Being only 3 boats and a station full of people wanting to get in on the action there were two groups to go out. I was in the second group, so by the time I got in the water its was close to 9 or 10pm, and the sun was just setting.The soft light, while adding to the beauty, and giving the night a surreal/other-worldly feel, hindered my photography a little. Having by no means mastered the art as yet, I found I was very frustrated with the photos I had taken when looking through them later. I do think a few turned out, but its always annoying to realise that the view other people will have of your experience falls so far short of reality. The main conglomeration of bergs lies around 15kms north of station, just off the coast, on a relatively shallow bank. Medium sized bergs seem to beach themselves here for long periods of time, meaning that we have a constant view of some pretty amazing bergs just to our north. Until now they have been tantalising us, but have always been just out of reach, so it was great to finally get in amongst them!
This one obviously spent some time stranded on the bottom, then broke and turned over. Thats frozen mud facing us.
This wasn’t the only time the boats got to the water however. Something I hadn’t counted on before I arrived was the extent of the summer melt, which meant that any off-station trips (mainly for science reasons by this time) were almost only viable via IRB.I was lucky enough to get an ‘assistant’ seat in an IRB for one such trip, which again just happened to be on a crystal clear and still bluebird day… not a ripple on the water. This was a trip to Robbo’s Hut, sticking pretty close to a section of the coast that doesn’t have too many bergs around, but there was still the odd berg to be seen and photographed. Nothing like the berg cruise proper, but still pretty awesome all the same.

Above is Brad and I on our way to Robbo's. Anyone in an IRB (or flying over water for that matter) in Antarctica has to wear one of these stylish one-piece mustang suits. Its meant to help if you fall into the -1.8 degree water... short of a heated gas-tight space suit however, i'm not convinced that anything would make falling in any easier.