Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Icebergs and cruises

For the most part, although it may seem a little counterintuitive, I think that what has impressed me most about being here so far has been what isn’t here, rather than what is here. Flying in on my birthday; the aurora we saw from the ship’s deck; strolling around amongst the penguins; experiencing a true blizzard, I must admit these were all quite amazing to me, even at the time. But it is the lack of trees, grass, ‘regular’ animals, ‘normal’ weather (rain), insects, certain smells, children, friends & family and other similar things that I find quite strange about being here. I wouldn’t say the lack of these things makes me homesick – although I do sometimes wish I could just go hiking at Barrington tops, or go to a cafĂ© with friends – but it does give me a new appreciation for these things, and shows me just how much I generally take for granted. Hence, I think my being here will mean much more to me once I’m home again.
However one thing that did really impress me immediately – and yes, I might even go so far as to say something theatrical like, “it took my breath away” – was the recent iceberg cruise I was lucky enough to get in on. We have 3 IRBs (Inflatable Rubber Boat) on station, and for most of the summer only two with a coxswains licence. For some over-precautious reason there is a law that states only coxswains may drive an IRB in Antarctica, and that there must never be only one boat in the water at a time. Since summer was quite a busy period, it was hard work finding an evening after work where both coxswains were free and nothing else was planned.
Here are Tod and "Curly", all smiles heading towards the bergs around sunset.Late in the season however, a 3rd coxswain arrived via the A319 Airbus, and on a very calm and clear evening late in January, we pushed some small bergy bits aside at the wharf, and put the boats in the water for the one solitary boat cruise of the season. One is better than none though, and I must say it was the most amazing 2 hours I’ve ever spent in a boat.
Being only 3 boats and a station full of people wanting to get in on the action there were two groups to go out. I was in the second group, so by the time I got in the water its was close to 9 or 10pm, and the sun was just setting.The soft light, while adding to the beauty, and giving the night a surreal/other-worldly feel, hindered my photography a little. Having by no means mastered the art as yet, I found I was very frustrated with the photos I had taken when looking through them later. I do think a few turned out, but its always annoying to realise that the view other people will have of your experience falls so far short of reality. The main conglomeration of bergs lies around 15kms north of station, just off the coast, on a relatively shallow bank. Medium sized bergs seem to beach themselves here for long periods of time, meaning that we have a constant view of some pretty amazing bergs just to our north. Until now they have been tantalising us, but have always been just out of reach, so it was great to finally get in amongst them!
This one obviously spent some time stranded on the bottom, then broke and turned over. Thats frozen mud facing us.
This wasn’t the only time the boats got to the water however. Something I hadn’t counted on before I arrived was the extent of the summer melt, which meant that any off-station trips (mainly for science reasons by this time) were almost only viable via IRB.I was lucky enough to get an ‘assistant’ seat in an IRB for one such trip, which again just happened to be on a crystal clear and still bluebird day… not a ripple on the water. This was a trip to Robbo’s Hut, sticking pretty close to a section of the coast that doesn’t have too many bergs around, but there was still the odd berg to be seen and photographed. Nothing like the berg cruise proper, but still pretty awesome all the same.

Above is Brad and I on our way to Robbo's. Anyone in an IRB (or flying over water for that matter) in Antarctica has to wear one of these stylish one-piece mustang suits. Its meant to help if you fall into the -1.8 degree water... short of a heated gas-tight space suit however, i'm not convinced that anything would make falling in any easier.